What care does it need what does it eat, It come with a house, what temputure
Feeding
A diet of primarily crickets can be fed to White’s tree frogs. Other items that can be fed include moths, beetles, cockroaches, grasshoppers, and earthworms. Fully grown White’s may even take pinkie mice on occasion. Insects can be simply placed in the cage, or offered using blunt (rounded) tip forceps.
The amount needed by your frog will very somewhat, but keep in mind that White’s tree frogs tend toward obesity, so do not over feed. As a very general guideline, feed large frogs (greater than 3 inches long) a few larger crickets every 2-3 days, adjusting based on the behavior (i.e. acting hungry or not interested in food) and body condition of the frog (see below). Smaller frogs can be offered about 3 week-old crickets every 2-3 days, and juveniles should be fed daily. The best way to judge how much to feed is looking at the frog’s body condition. Look for ridges just above the frog’s eardrum – if there are no noticeable ridges the frog is likely underweight and should be fed more or more often. If the ridges become prominent and start to sag or fold over, then the frog is obese and should be eating less.
The insects fed to the frog should be gut loaded (fed a nutritious diet that is then passed on to the frog – for more information on cricket care, see "Raising Crickets"). In addition, the food should be dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement (daily in very young frogs, once or twice a week for intermediate sized frogs, and once a week for mature frogs).
Decoration
Provide lots of branches, large pieces of cork bark, and foliage for climbing – keeping in mind that it needs to be quite sturdy to support these stocky frogs. Live plants can be used, although they must also be sturdy and they must be free of fertilizer or pesticide residues (on the plant or in the soil). Live plants in the terrarium can be kept in small pots to make cleaining the tank easier.
Placing a large piece of bark diagonally across the cage, a couple of inches from the back wall will allow the frog to hang from the back of the tank under the cover of the bark to sleep during the day. Alternately, any sort of thick plant cover or hide that allow the frog to hide during daylight hours can be used. Covering the back surface of the tank with dark paper will help the frog find a secluded and dim area to sleep during the day.
Temperature and Lighting
Because these frogs are nocturnal, there are no special lighting requirements (i.e. exposure to UVB is not necessary, although some exposure won’t hurt). However, a basking light or heater should be provided, outside of the cage, to provide a gradient of 80-86 F (27-30 C) during the day, with a drop to 72-78 F (22-25 C) at night. As always, use a thermometer to confirm that appropriate temperatures are provided. Lighting should be subdued (and if needed at night, use a nocturnal bulb), and a regular light-dark cycle should be used (12 hours light and 12 hours dark should be acceptable).
Cleaning and Maintenance
Your frog’s cage should probably be spot cleaned every day, wiping off any large bits of waste matter from the plants and bottom of the tank. The water in the dish should be changed daily or at least every other day. If paper is used to line the cage, this can be changed often. If bark or moss is used, it can be taken out an washed as needed – the more often the better. Soil should be changed as needed. Plain hot water is the best choice for cleaning – with soaps or disinfectants there is a chance of leaving residues which could be absorbed through the skin and harm the frog. If disinfection is necessary, rinse very well and dry thoroughly. Replace any water with stale, dechlorinated water
Feeding
A diet of primarily crickets can be fed to White’s tree frogs. Other items that can be fed include moths, beetles, cockroaches, grasshoppers, and earthworms. Fully grown White’s may even take pinkie mice on occasion. Insects can be simply placed in the cage, or offered using blunt (rounded) tip forceps.
The amount needed by your frog will very somewhat, but keep in mind that White’s tree frogs tend toward obesity, so do not over feed. As a very general guideline, feed large frogs (greater than 3 inches long) a few larger crickets every 2-3 days, adjusting based on the behavior (i.e. acting hungry or not interested in food) and body condition of the frog (see below). Smaller frogs can be offered about 3 week-old crickets every 2-3 days, and juveniles should be fed daily. The best way to judge how much to feed is looking at the frog’s body condition. Look for ridges just above the frog’s eardrum – if there are no noticeable ridges the frog is likely underweight and should be fed more or more often. If the ridges become prominent and start to sag or fold over, then the frog is obese and should be eating less.
The insects fed to the frog should be gut loaded (fed a nutritious diet that is then passed on to the frog – for more information on cricket care, see "Raising Crickets"). In addition, the food should be dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement (daily in very young frogs, once or twice a week for intermediate sized frogs, and once a week for mature frogs).
Decoration
Provide lots of branches, large pieces of cork bark, and foliage for climbing – keeping in mind that it needs to be quite sturdy to support these stocky frogs. Live plants can be used, although they must also be sturdy and they must be free of fertilizer or pesticide residues (on the plant or in the soil). Live plants in the terrarium can be kept in small pots to make cleaining the tank easier.
Placing a large piece of bark diagonally across the cage, a couple of inches from the back wall will allow the frog to hang from the back of the tank under the cover of the bark to sleep during the day. Alternately, any sort of thick plant cover or hide that allow the frog to hide during daylight hours can be used. Covering the back surface of the tank with dark paper will help the frog find a secluded and dim area to sleep during the day.
Temperature and Lighting
Because these frogs are nocturnal, there are no special lighting requirements (i.e. exposure to UVB is not necessary, although some exposure won’t hurt). However, a basking light or heater should be provided, outside of the cage, to provide a gradient of 80-86 F (27-30 C) during the day, with a drop to 72-78 F (22-25 C) at night. As always, use a thermometer to confirm that appropriate temperatures are provided. Lighting should be subdued (and if needed at night, use a nocturnal bulb), and a regular light-dark cycle should be used (12 hours light and 12 hours dark should be acceptable).
Cleaning and Maintenance
Your frog’s cage should probably be spot cleaned every day, wiping off any large bits of waste matter from the plants and bottom of the tank. The water in the dish should be changed daily or at least every other day. If paper is used to line the cage, this can be changed often. If bark or moss is used, it can be taken out an washed as needed – the more often the better. Soil should be changed as needed. Plain hot water is the best choice for cleaning – with soaps or disinfectants there is a chance of leaving residues which could be absorbed through the skin and harm the frog. If disinfection is necessary, rinse very well and dry thoroughly. Replace any water with stale, dechlorinated water
References :
Here are some more sites for further information:
http://allaboutfrogs.org/info/species/whites.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Your-White's-Tree-Frogs
http://whitestreefrog.net/care-sheet/